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Author Topic: Motor Lubrication Procdure (DRAFT)  (Read 3196 times)
nigel
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« on: November 27, 2009, 04:04:05 AM »

You will need -

- 8mm AF ring spanner
- flat bladed screwdriver
- small pliers or tweezers
- circlip pliers
- clean rag or kitchen paper
- lithium-based grease, such as Castrol LM
- 3-in-1 oil or similar
- lighter fuel or similar solvent
- toothpicks/matchsticks

Starting with the front bearing assembly, loosen the 8mm locknut.



Unscrew and remove the nose screw and locknut together.



Remove the circlip, using circlip pliers. The end plate will probably drop out.



Remove the spring, chamfered washer and spherical bearing. It may be necessary to hold the motor with the nose facing downwards and push the motor shaft forward, to make the bearing drop out.

Parts of the front bearing assembly - clean each part thoroughly with clean rag and a little lighter fuel. Then clean the bearing housing in the motor, using a matchstick or toothpick, to push the rag into the housing.



Coat one face of the spherical bronze bearing with grease, avoiding the hole through the middle.



Place the bearing back into the housing, with the greased side facing inwards.



Put one drop of oil on the end of the motor shaft, where it passes through the bearing.



Apply grease to the chamfered face of the washer.



Place the chamfered washer back into the bearing housing, with the chamfered (greased) side facing inwards. Then, grease the inside of the bearing housing.



Replace the spring, end plate and circlip. Ensure the circlip is correctly seated in its groove.



Grease the end of the nose setting screw and screw it loosely back into place, but do NOT tighten it!



Turn the motor around and place another drop of oil at the rear of the front bearing, where the motor shaft passes through it. Push the plastic oil thrower disc towards, but not touching, the bearing.



Note the small gap between the plastic disc and the face of the bearing -



Moving on to the rear bearing, remove the two screws which secure the metal plate carrying the connector block, to the rear of the motor.
The grey nylatron plate will probably fall off the metal plate, as it is removed.



Withdraw the spring, chamfered washer and spherical bearing.



Parts of the rear bearing assembly. Clean all the parts and bearing housing, as before.



Repeat the same procedure as for the front bearing - i.e.
- grease one face of the spherical bearing and replace in the housing
- put one drop of oil on the motor shaft, where it passes through the spherical bearing
- grease the chamfered face of the washer and place back in the housing, chamfered side inwards
- grease the inside of the bearing housing
- replace the spring



The nylatron plate will most probably show signs of wear, as below, so reverse it, so that the unworn side faces the bearing assembly.



Replace the metal plate and screw it back into position.

Now, the nose setting screw must be adjusted...




MOTOR NOSE SCREW ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE

To adjust the motor nose screw, it is necessary to run the motor out of the deck. You will need to make up a mains cable (line cord) to connect the motor to the supply. This can be dangerous if done incorrectly!
Follow this procedure at your own risk and responsibility !!
Keep both hands away from the terminal block area, whilst the power is on!
Do not hold the motor whilst making adjustments!

Prepare a 3-core cable, as shown below -



and connect to the motor as follows - wire colours shown are as used in EU - different colours will be used outside of the EU - your responsibility to check!!

Brown = "Live" / "Hot"
Blue    = "Neutral"
Green/Yellow = "Earth" / "Ground"

(note that the motor shown is wired for 230V operation)



Place the motor on a table or workbench. It may help to place it on a hollow box of some sort, as this will act as a sounding box and make it easier to hear the noise from the motor. Ensure the nose screw is screwed in so that resistance is just felt - do NOT tighten it. Then, connect the supply and switch on.
Slowly and carefully turn the nose screw clockwise, until the noise from the motor begins to increase.



Then, loosen again and repeat to find the exact point at which noise just starts to increase. Turn off the supply and disconnect.
Now, turn the screw 1/8 turn anticlockwise. Hold the screw in this position with a screwdriver, whilst carefully tightening the locknut with an 8mm ring spanner. Ensure that screw does not move as the locknut is tightened!



It should be possible to move the motor shaft back and forth by approximately 2mm -



Finally, connect the motor to the supply again and check that it runs quietly.
« Last Edit: October 01, 2019, 12:16:48 AM by Lenco Heaven » Logged

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roger15ohm
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« Reply #1 on: November 27, 2009, 08:21:01 AM »

Hey Nigel.

I was just thinking of any simpler way to upgrade the motor PSU.


Maybe have to warn those beginners that tunning the nose screw to a minimal noise -not over tighten to prevent over heat, and not too loose to prevent noise.  It took me quite a while for my first and only good condition motor.  Plus a number of time to switch on and off for tuning the nose will be quite dangerous. 
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reinderspeter
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« Reply #2 on: November 27, 2009, 09:46:22 AM »

Great work Nigel!
I see no obvious mistakes, so if you add the nose screw adjustment procedure we will be happy to move this into the Lencopedia wink
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Peter

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« Reply #3 on: November 27, 2009, 10:24:01 AM »

This is a great tutorial thumbsup  Good work, Nigel!
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andy
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« Reply #4 on: November 27, 2009, 11:44:49 AM »

Excellent work Nigel,

A top quality tutorial occasion14.

Andy.....
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Wout
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« Reply #5 on: November 27, 2009, 11:56:35 AM »

Great work Nigel!
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« Reply #6 on: November 27, 2009, 01:47:52 PM »

Great job
We all appreciate you doing this  smiley
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nigel
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« Reply #7 on: November 27, 2009, 01:59:14 PM »

Maybe have to warn those beginners that tunning the nose screw to a minimal noise -not over tighten to prevent over heat, and not too loose to prevent noise.  It took me quite a while for my first and only good condition motor.  Plus a number of time to switch on and off for tuning the nose will be quite dangerous. 

Hi Wan,

yes, you are quite correct, the procedure for setting the nose screw is important. I will be adding instructions for this, with more photos, in the next couple of days  wink
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roger15ohm
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« Reply #8 on: November 27, 2009, 03:04:45 PM »

Nigel.

I plan to re lub my motor. Although I manage to get the tunning done nicely but it was a trail and error thing. I can't recall what i'd done to get it rite. So your continous instructions surely will help me here!!

Cheers!

Wan. 
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jaspert
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« Reply #9 on: November 27, 2009, 03:21:18 PM »

Another thanks for the excellent tutorial which will no doubt be handy for me later on.
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rfgumby
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« Reply #10 on: November 27, 2009, 03:37:07 PM »

Great work Nigel.  We'd be proud to post this here.  Surprising how much work it is to build these instructions, eh?

We'll move it after the last updates about the nose screw adjustment.  Mainly you just want those nose screws to not be too tight, yet not have too much end play to reduce it's shifting from lateral force.

The How To section is finally filling out properly thanks to many noble efforts.   wink
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Scott

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willbewill
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« Reply #11 on: November 27, 2009, 06:14:15 PM »

Hi Wan,

yes, you are quite correct, the procedure for setting the nose screw is important. I will be adding instructions for this, with more photos, in the next couple of days  wink

Excellent - thanks Nigel

I always find it best to have the motor running on the bench to set the nose screw wink
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malcolm ("You can't shine if you don't burn" - Kevin Ayers)

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roger15ohm
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« Reply #12 on: November 28, 2009, 01:46:05 AM »

Excellent - thanks Nigel

I always find it best to have the motor running on the bench to set the nose screw wink

Mine is a bit dfferent.  After 1/2 plus running some knocking sound appear again and again.  I also notice different positioning the motor does makes it better or worse.  I managed to get mine done while the motor has mount on the chassis and do a numerous adjustment. 
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gjwAudio
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« Reply #13 on: November 29, 2009, 06:36:31 PM »

Hi Nigel

Beautifully illustrated, clear, step-by-step procedure.  Should allay the fears of every first-timer.

When I did my motor job, I found it useful to centre (or... "center") the motor core/coils around the shaft.
 - loosen the four Phillips retaining screws
 - slip/slide the coil assembly
 - insert three paper shims to ensure concentric symmetry (spaced at 120 degrees)
 - tighten screws

This reduced vibration - always a welcome state for the motor.
You may want to include this step in your process (and shoot proper photos  smiley).



Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Grant
« Last Edit: August 30, 2019, 06:44:07 PM by gjwAudio » Logged

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nigel
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« Reply #14 on: December 01, 2009, 02:03:44 AM »

When I did my motor job, I found it useful to centre (or... "center") the motor core/coils around the shaft.

Excellent idea Grant!! I also found that this made a big difference on my first L75 motor, so I think you're absolutely right - I will add this in as well.  smiley

Definitely "centre", I'd say  laugh wink
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