Wiring from tonearm to deck

[ajc adrian]

Hello Lencos

Happy Easter!

As I am progressing well with the rebuild from the Gl72 to a Gl75,I now have to consider the wiring.I originally cut the wires from the Gl75 in its factory form ,not thinking I would need them again.As I want to get the GL 75 deck back to its original wiring I am going to have to do some very fine soldering here and there,including the fine wire on the arm

My question is:    ''on the piece of wire in the photo, joined by a very high quality 5 pin connector,but very old ,I have never seen another like it,one side carries a yellow wire,the other side does not.I don't know why it stops at the connector.

OR do I NOT use the original wire but the cable I had made for the GL 72 by AUDIO ORIGAMI (for an AT 1009 arm ,still have it but it has some engineering issues))   Would this OA cable be suitable for the GL 75 arm?The 5 pin connector does not quite fit the connector mentioned earlier.Poss metric to imperial. So I would have to get AO  to make up the correct matching 5 pin connector to fit with the correct wiring for the arm GL 75
.Possible ?

What would I/you do, old or new?
Adrian

[h-j-hill]

The yellow, mains earthing, wire stopped at the 5-pin DIN connector, in your photo,
because back then most amplifiers (particularly valve/tube ones) had the signal ground
(as per the phono-leads' screens) and the mains-earth (for all the exposed metalwork)
electrically connected. 
(As like as not, inside the DIN connector, the yellow lead connects to the signal ground.)

Modern electronics do not do this.

The problem this creates and the recommended wiring solutions can be found here:
https://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=71.0

[ropie]

Unless you've got some patience and skill with a soldering iron, Adrian, I would consider sending your arm off to be rewired by someone else. It's a tricky job at the best of times and quite easy to mess up (he says, speaking from experience).

[aamodtasan]

Hi, I’m a little uncertain if you have cut the tonearm wires short, in that case I would do as Ropie suggest. If your tonearm cables have the original length, my go-to method is to move the relay from underneath the platter to the inside of the plinth, soldering them to a new shielded cable terminated with RCAs on one end, I have been using this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Quality-Deck-Turntable-Lead-Gold-Phono-Lead-Earth-Cable-Technics-SL1200-SL1210-/132836981379?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286 (no connection). I then screw the relay to the inside of the plinth, preferably as far away from the mains as possible. Have never had an issue with hum doing this. I would then save the origami cable for another project

cheers
henrik

edit: put in better picture

[ajc adrian]

Hello HJ Hill and thanks to all!.

I had a feeling that was  the case,but wasn't sure.( the old way of doing things).I will surely go the more modern  way.

The whole arm doesn't need rewiring.The long green thin wires are still there. it's just that bit for the yellow wire near the knife edge that goes on to the body of the arm down inside the column and onto to the tag..I'll have to work out an approach for doing it,unless  anyone on LH does this sort of soldering work for a fee.

Hi Henrik.I like what you have done with the wiring! I think that is for me!.What I can see is that my piece of thin yellow wire is only long enough to reach the tag on the arm pillar.Do you know where I could get hold of this very thin wire,same spec?

Great replies
regards
Adrian

[aamodtasan]

Hi Adrian, I have previously used wire from old headphones/earbuds, the center wire in those usually works fine for grounding the arm, or if you have some of the original (grey or white) signal cable, a piece of the centre wire from that will also be good for the grounding.

 So as I understand, the signal wires are intact, the grounding from the arm is intakt on the first leg of the "journey" ie from underneath the arm to the underside of the arm pillar. Then it is a case of soldering a piece of wire to the small bracket on the underside and you're done.

The little yellow loop should be soldered to the underside of the arm itself on one end, and to the bracket on the pillar screw on the other (green arrow). To complete you'll need a wire to substitute the other yellow wire (red arrow):


cheers
henrik

ps: make sure you have enough length in your wires, otherwise the arm will be tethered and not move freely. Also, do not put the relay immediately underneath the arm pillar, it will not be enough space.

[ajc adrian]

Hi Henrik

I have ordered the cable,and should have it by Friday.Thanks for the advice .That will save me a lot of hassle.

Regards Adrian

[aamodtasan]

Hi Henrik

I have ordered the cable,and should have it by Friday.Thanks for the advice .That will save me a lot of hassle.

Regards Adrian

excellent, hope you'll be happy with the solution (I am )

cheers
henrik

[ajc adrian]

 Hi Henrit.

I have removed a length of red light guage cable from the original grey cable,to use from the bot. tag of the arm column.
Good tip!

Adrian

[ajc adrian]

Hi All

I MAY have had a lucky break with the soldering of the thin earthwire to the wand of the GL75 arm.I have noticed there is a very small piece of exposed original wire STILL  soldered   to the wand.An original LENCO job.You can  see it in the foto .I think I might just be able to do it if I prepare perfect conditions for soldering.Must be careful not to melt the small existing solder pool!Any advice on how not to screw it up ,most welcome.

Soldering onto chromed aluminium is no easy task,....wire to wire much better chance.
If anyone is faced with this job check there isn't a small piece of wire laying flat ,that you can prize up,and use for your connection.

Have a nice day

Ade