Direct-wiring a tonearm - how do I do it?

[Redboy]

I'd like to rewire my Decca ffss tonearm from pins to RCAs, a "direct wire" if you will.  My Schick arm is wired that way, and I really like the idea of eliminating a set of connectors at the arm pillar/ tonearm cable interface.  Has anyone done this?  What tips/ suggestions/ ideas/ advice might you give me?  

I'm a little concerned about strain relief - how to keep from pulling the wires out?

I might buy some nice Cardas wire for this, but I'm tempted to try the econo option and use the wire from an old computer mouse.  I saw that idea on a forum somewhere and it seems like a pretty good one - four color-coded, stranded wires and a shield in a flexible yet durable outer jacket.  Why not?

Any and all advice appreciated.

[GP49]

Maybe I haven't been lucky enough to come across the most flexible computer mouse wires, but none of the ones I have encountered are as flexible as the tonearm wiring used by Garrard in its record changers from around 1964 on.  That used in the Zero 100 and others with similar rotating-head tonearms was even more flexible.  It was a five-wire set, two signals, two grounds and a tonearm/chassis earth.

Unfortunately, I have run out of the stuff...more Unobtainium, I'm afraid.

[Redboy]

Yeah Gene, the wire I swiped off an old mouse from work is stiffer and bigger than I need.  I seem to remember having a little "travel mouse" here somewhere that had a much smaller diameter leash.  I can't find it now, of course. 

May have to go with the high buck stuff.

[daiwok]

To help you decide whether you like it or not, you can wire direct to the cartridge pins on a separate cable first like my friend here - basically by passing the factory fitted cable





Not pretty but sure sounds better according to him 

[tomatamot]

 

I'm a little concerned about strain relief - how to keep from pulling the wires out?

Redboy, cotton sailingrope  or a boot-lace. Pull out the kernelwire, so you have now a nice pod. Strech this pod and keep your wire`s 2 Inch longer.

For David`s friend solution:

Wire the channels opposit to each other around the armtube, or better thourough
the armtube.

If you like I`ve some HF-Litze 20 X 0,03 mm wire for you.

[mred]

Nate
Here is a link to an ebay seller with some good wire for cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/20-stranded-32-AWG-Silver-Teflon-Wire-5-color-Tonearm-/230558369706?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ae5987aa

I used it to breadboard my crossover, I think it would work well for tonearms.

Ed

[Jos]

You can buy some from Vic (trans-fi), member here. Good wire, very flexible and thin. Comes with colorcoded heatshrink and connectors.

For experimentation I bought some Litze at a trainmodelshop. 0,08 mm diametre.  2,40 euro for 5 mtr !!

Good luck with the job

Cheers,  Jos

[Redboy]

Redboy, cotton sailingrope  or a boot-lace. Pull out the kernelwire, so you have now a nice pod. Strech this pod and keep your wire`s 2 Inch longer.

For David`s friend solution:

Wire the channels opposit to each other around the armtube, or better thourough
the armtube.

If you like I`ve some HF-Litze 20 X 0,03 mm wire for you.

Hans, the bootlace idea is excellent.  If I end up with wire that doesn't have an outer sheath, I'll do that. 

Litz wire, eh?  That would certainly fit the bill for flexibility!  0,03 mm sounds really small!   My only hesitation is that by the time it arrives here from across the pond, I may have forgotten what it's for! 

Nate
Here is a link to an ebay seller with some good wire for cheap.

http://cgi.ebay.com/20-stranded-32-AWG-Silver-Teflon-Wire-5-color-Tonearm-/230558369706?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35ae5987aa

I used it to breadboard my crossover, I think it would work well for tonearms.

Ed

That looks pretty good, too!

You can buy some from Vic (trans-fi), member here. Good wire, very flexible and thin. Comes with colorcoded heatshrink and connectors.

For experimentation I bought some Litze at a trainmodelshop. 0,08 mm diametre.  2,40 euro for 5 mtr !!

Good luck with the job

Cheers,  Jos

Now three choices in three posts!  Is Vic's wire litz, or something else?

[Jos]

It's Litz and Vic's on Ebay.

http://cgi.ebay.nl/TONEARM-REWIRING-KIT-4m-LITZ-WIRE-TAGS-HEAT-SHRINK-/180583815853?pt=Turntable_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0ba25aad

Cheers,  Jos

[Redboy]

I picked up three feet of the Cardas wire with my last order of parts, and rewired it with that.  I've never rewired an arm before - that tiny gauge stuff is pretty fiddly!  Got it all sorted out though, and things sound good.  I learned some things that I will do differently next time. 

Now to get the VTA dialed in again.

[Redboy]

Some pictures. 

You can see that I didn't leave quite enough length.  Also, I'm not sure the best way to connect to the RCAs - it's a bit delicate.





This shot doesn't look like much, but in the "before" picture, you'll recall that there were wires spliced together poorly and taped up with cellophane tape.  It's better now...

[tomatamot]

Nate an other RCA ?

[Redboy]

Yeah, that could be cool, Hans.  I built this phono preamp a couple years ago, and have since decided that I really don't like to see wires entering or exiting the top side of the chassis like that.  Now I prefer to route them to the side or rear.  Tidier, I think.