Solution for idler wheel noise

[ropie]

The function of the circlip on the idler-axle is definitely not just to keep the wheel from popping off when engaged, it's function is also to eliminate bearing-play and keep the wheel from moving up and down on the idler-axle while running (which would cause instability in speed and possibly also noise).

I've had mine set up with the idler wheel free to move up and down the spindle since I wrote about it several years ago, and have never had any speed stability problems.  Due to how the drive mechanism works there is no way for the wheel to move away from the base of the spindle whilst spinning - it is held against it.

[da-jack]

Stop causing confusion, Ropie, I never heard this before!
Just kidding...

To keep things simple, maybe we can agree on this:
The idler-wheel needs to be able to spin freely by all means.
At the same time, it can't hurt to move the circlip up close to the washer & bearing-sleeve of the wheel to eliminate play along the axle as long as it doesn't interfere with the free movement of the wheel.

Thinking a bit about what you said, Ropie, I'm beginning to understand why this works. The pre-condition for this, I would suppose, is that the complete drive-train is set up absolutely precisely and that all parts of the drive-train are in 100% perfect condition. A slight unevenness of the underside of the platter, however, or a slightly wobbly idler-wheel will make the the idler move up and down the axle. And if then the surface of the motor-spindle at the point/s of contact with the idler-wheel isn't set up exaclty parallel to the surface of the platter these deviations will result in wow; or maybe it's more precise to say that they will amplify/increase the wow that is caused by the deviations of these elements themselves. Ok, this is maybe just theory, the relevant question would rather be, how big these deviations from the ideal need to be so one can actually hear them... and the inertia of the heavy platter will probably do a lot to compensates for some of these variances.

Sorry, just thinking out loud...

Best,
Dan

[jonahsdad]

so you have seen the yellow in pics....that leads me to believe it is stock on at least some.....I haven't noticed any issues so I may just leave it as is...thx.

If I recall you have a Bogen B61 or 62, which is a rebadged L70.  The yellow underside is normal on these. 

Phil

[plexi]

yes mine was a bogen 62 or 61 so maybe that is the case. it is the american version and for some reason they applied that paint....sort of like how some dynaco a25's in america had a bit different baffle compared to european a25's......somehow an importer felt the need to apply the paint on the bogen platters..

[flencolix]

why should they paint the platter yellow for the americans?
Early L70s have the yellow platter over here, too

[plexi]

ok well that means its not country dependent and at one point they may have decided it was a good thing during a certain time in production....maybe someone some day will see this and have the answer.....

[da-jack]

Maybe it was meant as a coating that protects the platter from oxidation or zinc-blooming in the long term. And possibly they changed the alloy used for the platter at some point in time and decided the coating wasn't necessary anymore. Something like that, just guessing...

[mustafa]

Hi,

I have movement in my idler arm, from top to bottom and left to right. Surely this must effect the sound, or is it the grommet. I this due to a lack of knowledge, because I know very little, ab out the technical side of the Lenco.

Regards

Mustafa

[rfgumby]

It's made to move, to work in concert with the motor, which is on springs and moves.  Set the plinth-less unit up on boards, run it, put a finger on it, and watch the whole mechanism load up and release the loading up, to correct for the speed variation.   Then it might make more sense.

[mustafa]

Hi Scott,

Thank you very much.

Regards

Mustafa

[Roydavis]

The idler wheel on my G88 slips and the platter slows down eventually to a stop. Should I tension the spring a bit more?

[pde2000]

You probably need to rotate the grommet.  http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=4680.225

[behind the rock]

Been reading this thread with interest.  Werner's bush and washers are very good but if you want to re-use the circlip, when removing it put a small plastic zip loc bag over that area and then lever it off as the circlip doesn't sit in a groove it just grips the main shaft diameter. Hopefully the little blighter will just ping straight into the bag. 

Andy

[bupjin]

Spring tension should be controlled first!  ^^

[Tomcat1969]

I've been messing with my idler wheel this weekend.

I would like to get one of Werners kits with the new washers and clamp... but I'm broke till I get my next wage.   

Anyhoo. I was trying to get the wheel back on the shaft and still leave enough clearance that it spins freely without to much lateral movement. Quite tricky with the original, tight fitting c clip.

Then I had an idea. I found some .05 brass shim in my toolbox. I cut a rectangle of it and cut 3 mm slot in it. Put it between the washer and the wheel spindle. Press back together then slip the shim out leaving .05 mm clearance. A close enough tolerance I think. Which allows for free spinning and minimal lateral movement. I also tried .025mm but I felt it was to close a tolerance.

Billy.